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This is the perfect base. The space between the spokes is square, and approximately 3/8ths of

an inch. The spaces

should never be wider

than the basket spokes

This base needs adustments.

The spokes need to be straightened out so that the rows are parallel.

Position your basket base in the center of your spokes. Curved spokes should be positioned on the outside edges of your base, as with the horizontal spokes above.

After bending all of the spokes along the outside edge (upsetting the spokes), split a "center under" spoke, to create two separate spokes. Turn your base so that the split is at the top of the base in front of you.

Place the tapered end of a weaver snugly into the split. Weave around the edge of the basket. Use clothes pins to hold the corners in place as you weave to keep the weaver close to the base edge.

I turn my base counter-clockwise so that I am always weaving on the right side of my base. Try to keep the weaver as close to the base edge as possible. Use and remove clothes pins as necessary.

This step is done after weaving the 3rd or 4th row. Start in the left corner and tug gently on the corner spoke. Tug a bit harder on the 2nd spoke.

Tug firmly on the middle spoke. This will form a definite arch in the bottom of the basket. The basket will sit nicely on the "feet" created in the corners.

Finish the bottom by tugging on the 4th spoke and gently on the right corner. Straighten the spokes and repeat on all four sides. Repeat.

Weave basket with your left hand, using your right index finger to hold your reed in place as you weave around each side.

Be careful not to pull the weaver too tight on your corners. That will cause your spokes to bend inward, making weaving difficult.

Do not allow your corners to become too lose. This can happen if you are not careful to keep your spokes upright and parallel as you weave.

This base needs to be packed. Basket rows should be "pulled or packed" firmly down on top of the rows closest to the bottom. Do not allow gaps between the rows of weavers.

Use your thumbs and index fingers to hold the basket as you make adjustments. Start at the bottom of the basket and work your way up, packing one row at a time.

This is what a nicely shaped basket will look like. Notice the arched bottom, the straight parallel spokes, the spacing in the corners, and the tight rows.

Cut the weaver 4 spokes beyond the split. Taper the end of the weaver gradually from the end to the split. Finish weaving.

Trim the top of your basket. Leave about 1 1/2"-2" above the top row. Carefully re-wet the top and spokes if they have dried out during weaving.

Bend the outside spokes firmly over the top row of weavers. There are an odd number of spokes, resulting in either bending 2 or cutting 2 at the end.

Round the end gradually (often ends crease), and tuck it into the 3rd row down from the top rows until it lies flat against the middle of the basket.

A small flat screwdriver or a popsicle stick may be helpful in lifting the rows that the end must be forced under. Work with the top of the basket laying on the table facing you.

I prefer to use the thumbnail on my left hand to poke the 3rd row into the basket center while using my left index finger and thumb to guide the spokes into place.

Pin over the top row only. Start the outside rim at the split. Lay the round reed on the top edge of the weaving, between the rims. To lace the rim properly, it must be pinned tight to the top of the basket.

Start with the lacer secured inside. Bring the lacer up and over the rim. Tuck it in between the weavers and under the rim. Use your left thumb to push the lacer around the rim as you tug firmly with your right hand.

I use a tool or popsicle stick to force an opening under the rim where the top row is tapered. This keeps your lacing and rim smooth and even. Shape and glue your handle in place, and you have your basket. Congratulations!